Friday, March 14, 2014

Forget Green Beer and Lucky Charms


     This time of year everyone swears they have Irish blood. We all get out our green shirts and shamrock headbands and hit the local pub for a night of green beer but the mere mention of Irish food brings on wrinkled noses and gagging gestures. We all have visions of boiled cabbage and potatoes, braised corned beef that we love on rye with Swiss but have no idea how to cook properly. I'm here to tell you that Irish food is so much more than that!
    When most people think of Irish fare, they immediately assume it is going to be boiled, bland, starchy and uninspired but the fact of the matter is that Ireland has rich soil that produces beautiful vegetables and grains. The livestock produces milk that is turned in to some of the world's greatest cheeses and dairy products.. It's surrounded by oceans full of fresh seafood and shellfish and of course, there is amazing beer and whiskey.
    Today, chefs in Ireland and here in the states are putting a fresh spin on the traditional flavors so here is my own interpretation of some common dishes. These dishes are simple, rustic, and certainly worth a try.
   
 Shepherd's Pie-this is one of my family's favorite. It is incredibly easy to prepare and, like great soup and chili, it gets better the next day. Although traditionally made with ground lamb, I use ground beef. It is more accessible, less expensive and more mild than lamb. It is simply browned with a little onions, garlic, peas and carrots in a rich beefy gravy and then topped with creamy mashed potatoes and baked. Some people put corn in theirs as well but I prefer it in it's more traditional form. 

    Corned Beef with Root Veggies and Cabbage-this is the traditional dish that most people associate with St Patrick's Day. Growing up, my mom made corned beef more than once a year. She would boil it so there was always a big consistency problem. Sometimes it was tender and moist, others it was tough or stringy. It wasn't until I started cooking professionally that I realized that it should have been braised for the best result. Slow braising in a crock pot or heavy casserole is the best bet. Traditionally potatoes and carrots are boiled but I prefer to roast them up nice and brown and crispy. I use a variety of potatoes to add beautiful color and different textures. I add parsnips and celery root when I can find them for more depth of flavor. Roast them well seasoned (fresh Rosemary is the perfect herb) and then toss with butter before serving. As far as the cabbage goes, I do not like it boiled so we either serve coleslaw or pickled red cabbage instead.
     
Fish and Chips- I have to say that I, initially, was resistant to this one because my only exposure to breaded fried fish came out of the freezer and was shaped like sticks! Then, years ago, while at the Grandfather Mountain Scottish Highland Games in North Carolina, I had the real deal fish and chips. The best fish, by far, is cod. Halibut is great too but I just like Halibut so much that it seems a crime to batter it and fry it. Plus, Halibut can be very expensive. If you are looking for an inexpensive alternative, you can use Tilapia but it is not quite as mild and not as firm a finished product. Make a batter from flour and beer seasoned well with salt and pepper. Deep fry it with nice chunky chips of russet potatoes and it is a MUST to serve it well salted with Malt Vinegar.
     Irish Soda Bread- this is another one that I prefer as authentic as possible. There are lots of updated versions but I love the mild caraway flavor, crumbly texture and sweet raisins. It is an easy bread to make because it is made with baking soda instead of yeast. I love it with a little salted butter for breakfast.
     
St Patty's Day is only a couple of days away so get your Irish on and give these traditional Irish dishes a try. Couple them with a good Irish Ale. I love McSorley's Black myself.  McSorley's is a very famous Irish pub in Greenwich Village that was my favorite haunt when I went to school in Manhattan. I also am a Killian's fan but there are many fun tasty brews out there! 
    



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